The Places That Don't Want You Anymore

There is a moment, standing in the middle of a narrow Venetian alleyway at 9am in July, when you realise that you are not a traveller.

Why Everyone Is Walking to Somewhere Sacred

Nobody warned me that my feet would bleed on the third day.

Sleep Has Become the Ultimate Luxury

For most of human history, the purpose of a hotel room was somewhere to put your bags and your body between the things you actually came to do.

The Netflix Effect and the Destinations It Created Overnight

The village of Monsanto in Portugal sits high on a granite hillside in the country's interior...

Travelling Alone Has Never Been More Popular, or More Misunderstood

People always assume I must be lonely. I am sitting at a table for one in a restaurant in Lisbon, reading a novel and eating grilled fish...

The Places That Climate Change Is Quietly Rewriting

I have a photograph of the Mer de Glace. My grandmother took it on a trip to Chamonix in 1971, standing at the viewing platform above Montenvers station...